Jackson Free Press

The splendor of the season's bounty thrills thousands at the open-air farmers market. More than ever, people prefer purchasing their produce directly from the farmers who grow it. You can pick up fresh fish, shrimp and oysters from reputable fishermen just back from trolling, or taste organic, artisanal cheeses made from grass-fed sheep, goats and cows. During this time of the year, the farmers market is a lush and lavish multi-sensory spectacle.

Watch as young boys in overalls grind peanuts into fresh peanut butter. Marvel at the 80-year-old farmer's wife deftly shelling peas with her thick, craggy hands. Take a cooking class from a renowned chef dedicated to sustainability, or enjoy a double-scoop of devilishly high-butterfat peaches 'n' cream at the adorable, American turn-of-the-century-style ice cream parlor. If you are a night owl, enjoy the live bands playing at the Twilight Summer Music Festivals.

But you'll have to go to Los Angeles to do it.

I shake and shimmy as my truck handles the rugged terrain of the Central Farmers Market at Woodrow Wilson and West Street. I experience profound sadness as the scene before me unfolds. I survey structurally damaged buildings, peeling paint, empty stalls and debris-filled streets. It's as if a category-four hurricane has slammed into the farmers market, laying waste to vast areas, bringing misery and destruction. I pick through the rubble hoping to find something familiar, reverently wondering what has become of the "disaster refugees" who formerly filled the market. Restoration will take time. Grief counseling is not available.

Fortunately, though, that big, mean storm didn't have the heart to take away the beloved occupants of Shed 4, First Stall.

Ms. Doris Berry stands proudly behind her pole beans, okra and peppers, as she has for 53 years. Ms. Nell Cody, her produce partner in the 20 x 20 open-air shed is a rookie at 44 years and counting. She helps me bag up some tomatoes, which sit brightly in front of a barely legible sign touting "Field-Grown Tomatoes." A tired-looking patchwork of multi-colored plastic tarps hangs precariously around the perimeter of the shed, keeping the leaky roof at bay. There are five retail vendors remaining at the market, but the state Legislature would like the remnant to voluntarily evacuate.

Jackson's Central Farmers Market at Woodrow Wilson and West Street has been operating since 1948. It is the only farmers market owned by the state of Mississippi and reportedly the only one that is dying on the vine. The Legislature has a plan in the works to build a new farmers market complex downtown next door to the Flea Market in the Trade Mart area with fronts on Jefferson and High streets. Ms. Nell and Ms. Doris want to remain at the existing farmers market where they enjoy a loyal customer base in a historical market. "To me, it wouldn't take a lot of money to fix it up 'cause all it needs is resurfacing and to put new tops on the sheds," said Ms. Nell. "And to clean it up," Ms. Doris adds.

Steve Holland, funeral-home owner and Democrat representative from Tupelo, has served as chairman of the Agriculture Committee for the past 16 years. His latest, and arguably greatest, distinction to date was his successful bid to declare the teddy bear Mississippi's official state toy. His office was festooned with stuffed bears received from all over the state. While the chairman took a phone call, I checked his Elvis clock several times and read "What It Takes To Be Number One by Vince Lombardi" off a wall print. He finished his call before I was able to discover all of Vince's secrets to success, but I was already sensing that Steve Holland, while quite charming and hospitable, is no teddy bear. When asked about the vendors who were unhappy with the possibility of relocating, Holland boomed, "Well, tell 'em to gird their loins, 'cause it's a done deal."

The market is moving due to hard, cold cash—and perhaps a redefinition of the geographic "center" of the city. The Legislature has calculated a cost of $4.1 million to renovate the existing market versus only $2.9 million to start from scratch. "When you look at the wave of people that come into downtown Jackson every day that live in Madison and Rankin County and drive BMWs and that kind of thing, they would eat alive a clean, well-presented farmers market with a variety of goods and services offered. I just think they would swamp it," Holland said. "You're centralizing the Central Farmers Market is what you are doing."

The chairman predicts market sales will go through the roof and is confident of a big increase in vendor participation, with more variety in products and services offered. Ms. Nell is not convinced. "When us five are gone, there won't be any more. They say they can get more farmers to work the new market, but every farmer I talk to says I'm getting out of this business." According to the Department of Agriculture and Commerce, the number of farms in Mississippi has decreased significantly, from 300,000 to 42,000 at last count.

Although the number of farms has decreased nationwide, the number of farmers markets in the United States has grown dramatically, increasing 79 percent from 1994 to 2002. According to the 2002 National Farmers Market Directory, more than 3,100 farmers markets operate in the United States. Farmers markets help boost the community's economy while providing fresh, nutritious foods at affordable prices. Many farmers sell their produce exclusively at farmers markets, making markets a crucial source of revenue for farming families. Buying directly from farmers helps them stay in business during tough economic times.

Rebuilding the farmers market has been an issue with the Legislature for more than 13 years. Holland acknowledged that the Department of Agriculture and Commerce has not put the kind of emphasis on the farmers market that they probably should have. "We've let that structure out there just fall apart, quite frankly. The whole fairgrounds renovation has taken precedence with the committee, and that's where we've put our money and energy." Fortunately, with the fairgrounds in pretty good shape, they have now turned their attention to the farmers market.

When asked if the new farmers market would be patterned after successful markets in larger cities with everything from petting zoos to trendy coffee shops, he responded: "We've got a lot of room for growth. Somebody could make a smooth gold dime out of a restaurant out there … somebody who served Mississippi grub." But the Legislature doesn't decide that kind of thing. The details will be sorted out under the direction of the Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce.

Ms. Doris and Ms. Nell don't have to worry about moving any time soon, though. According to Tupelo's best-known representative, the state's awkward, backward, time-consuming approach to securing property and building structures may delay the process another two years before the new farmers market is actually up and running. So go visit Ms. Doris and Ms. Nell for home-grown produce at the existing farmers market.

Just watch out for the potholes.
Kathleen Bruno is a writer and chef in Jackson.