Jackson Free Press

In the quest to discover wine, many of us peruse our favorite package stores and restaurant wine lists for new things to try. Every now and then something pops up that makes us wonder, "What on earth is that?" Viognier, to the novice wino, is one of those things.

So, what is it?

Viognier (pronounced Vee-on-yay) is a white varietal that is unlike any other. This grape is very difficult to grow and is prone to mildew on the vines. Because it must be picked when fully ripe, it is often a challenge for winemakers to keep mildew away until harvest time. If it is picked too early, the wine will not develop the classic aromas and rich flavors typical of this sensual wine. This grape is notoriously unpredictable, which often leads to low yields and thus higher prices.

It is most notably grown in France in the only two all-Viognier appellations, Condrieu and Chateau Grillet. If you are lucky enough to stumble across one of these little treasures, hopefully you'll also be lucky enough to have someone else pay for it because these French Viogniers are well-known for their extremely high price tags. Serious wine collectors call Viognier from Condrieu the "most expensive wine to be drunk so young." (These wines, unlike their Burgundian counterparts, are not built for age.) There are, thankfully, lots of California versions to choose from that are more affordable. (This grape is also grown in Australia, central Italy, and parts of South America, but these are not yet available in our market.)

What can one expect from a Viognier? Well, one thing's for sure: these wines are very unique. The taster can expect the aromas to be notably sweet and floral, like honey-suckle and tropical fruit. On the palate, however, these wines take on a whole new identity. They are quite rich and viscous, usually with flavors of apricot, peach and spice, and then, strangely, finish quite dry. It's almost as if the flavors are layered or come in waves, like something out of Willy Wonka's chocolate factory. They tend to be higher in alcohol than other white wines (yahoo!) and low in acidity. Sound weird? Well, in a way they are, but they are also delightful to the adventurous palate.

Here are some recommendations for some great California Viogniers available locally:
Martine's Viognier (about $17) – this great wine is probably the closest you'll get to a French Viognier out of California. This wine is made in stainless steel casks, which gives it a lovely steely, mineral quality, along with fresh peach, lemon and pear flavors. Try this one first!
RH Phillips EXP Viognier (about $14) – this wine is rich and creamy, from oak aging, and shows beautiful tropical fruit, honey and spice.
JC Cellars Viognier – Rodney's Vineyard (about $18) – for a white wine, this one is a monster! It is full-bodied and rich with apricot, peach, orange blossom and ginger flavors. This one is in limited quantity, so grab it if you can!
Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc/Viognier (about $16) – this is a great little blended wine to try. The Chenin Blanc adds acidity to the wine, cuts through the richness and makes it much less full-bodied. Very approachable and refreshing.

If you're planning a special dinner, and you want to throw in one of these truly special wines, try a spicy Asian-style meal, or strong-flavored, rich chicken, fish or pork dishes. Of course, like all wine, Viogniers are great for sipping, too.

So, I've issued the challenge. Put down your Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio and take a really big step into the world of wine. Your palate deserves a little excitement every once in a while.