Jackson Free Press

Did you know that catfish accounts for 46 percent of the value of aquaculture production in the United States? That 660 million pounds were produced in 2003? That the catfish crop was valued at $425 million in 2003? Or that Mississippi accounted for the greatest part of that value at $243 million that year? Unless you raise catfish for a living, you probably don't really care, not as long as your favorite catfish place has plenty of the boneless filets to satisfy the craving that hits you regularly.

Come on out to Byram to get your catfish fix. Catfish eateries are popping up alongside the roads like so many wild onions will be doing before we know it. Of course, there was already the big fish—the sit-down-and-eat Swinging Bridge Fish House, 114 Holiday Lane, 346-9844, just off the northward bound I-55 Frontage Road at the Siwell Road exit. For the past five years, the Swinging Bridge—it takes its name from the nearby actual swinging bridge that spans the Pearl River—has served lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and dinner those same days from 5-9 p.m. Saturday their dinner hours change to 4-9 p.m. while on Sundays, the Swinging Bridge is open from 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Their competition has now arrived in the shape of what one might call catfish shacks, sort of like Penn's at the State Fair without the wheels—one on each side of I-55.

The suitably named Catfish One opened for business Jan. 20 at 5663 Terry Road, 372-6333, across the street from the Byram Post Office. Owner Larry Schruff, 42, and his 22-year-old son Trey run their catfish place out of a 16-1/2 by 24 foot building, fronted by a 12 by 24 awning. Quite a few customers can stand beneath that cover and be helped at the two serving windows.

The menu is right there on the front of the building, telling one and all that entrees include catfish filets, popcorn shrimp, boiled shrimp, chicken filets and oysters. Sides are stuffed crab and fried dill pickles while dessert is a fried apple pie. The newest items on the menu are the combo dishes, served with fries, hushpuppies and slaw—pick from fish/oyster, shrimp/oyster, chicken/oyster, fish/ shrimp, fish/chicken and shrimp/chicken. Or you could go with fish only or oysters only. There's sweet tea and jumbo sweet tea, or a 20-ounce soft drink.

Schruff said they're open Thursday and Saturday, 3-9 p.m. and Friday 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. "This is a franchise," he explained, going on to say that it originated in Laurel years ago when a WWII veteran started the first one. His grandson, Dr. Joe Michael Robertson, bought the business and now it's franchised with 31 locations in the states of Alabama, Louisiana and Mississippi. The fact that the originator of Catfish One comes from a military background doesn't surprise me. After all, the exterior décor is stars and stripes, and the slogan is "We're good to go!"

Right now it's cash and checks, but hopefully next week they'll be set up for credit and debit cards. The grand opening is March 18, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Come get a free sample.

The other catfish shack in Byram relocated recently to the northward bound Frontage Road of I-55. Mr. B's Catfish Shak is at 5430 I-55 South, next to Lawn Sport Nursery. Owner Lou Davis and his wife, Pat, want you to visit them in their new location (they used to be on the other side of the interstate) and try their various plates—all meals include drink and tax—including large fish, regular fish, shrimp, chicken, oyster, clam strips and child's plate.

Plus, there's a daily special with six catfish filets, hushpuppies, French fries and coleslaw. Their hours are Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m-1:30 p.m. and 4-7:30 p.m.