Jackson Free Press

Looking for a sweet wine? Try a Riesling. Looking for a dry wine? Try a Riesling. Looking for a dessert wine? Try a Riesling.

The late 20th century fashion of heavily oaked wines put a dent in Riesling's reputation and sales, but more and more, people are realizing that those big, heavy, oaky Chardonnays are no good to pair with food. Trusty, tangy Riesling has been put in the spotlight once again.

Riesling is perhaps the most versatile grape varietal in the wine world and is said to be one of the very best with food. In fact, some of the most sought-after collectable white wines in the world are Rieslings.

Still trying to shake visions of Blue Nun from your head? Branching out into the world of Riesling could possibly make you a true connoisseur.

A native of Germany, the Riesling grape has been cultivated there for at least 500 years. This grape's resistance to frost makes Germany the best place for it to thrive. Alsace, at the French/German border, runs a pretty close second. The balance of good acid and high sugar levels gives this wine considerable aging potential. Rieslings are usually characterized by spice, peach and apricot fruit flavors, floral aromas and low alcohol, and can range from dry to extremely sweet. With at least three to five years of age in the bottle, Riesling develops a distinct petrol aroma. (A dead give-away if you ever find yourself in a blind tasting.)

Another feature of the talented Riesling grape is that, more than any other grape varietal, it really shows the character of its specific vineyard site, i.e. mineral content of soil. The sweetest Rieslings are affected by Botrytis mold, known as "the noble rot." I know, it sounds pretty nasty, but this is one situation where seeing a bunch of moldy grapes is actually a good thing. Botrytis causes the grapes to shrivel, thus concentrating and intensifying sugars and flavors, while the acid levels remain high. In North America, these types of wines are called "Late Harvest," while in Germany they are called Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). (And the winner of the word-with-the-most-letters contest is…)

Eiswein is Riesling made from grapes that are picked while frozen on the vines. In Australia Rieslings tend to be quite dry, while still highly acidic. Washington State and Oregon, with their colder maritime climates, are also putting out some great Rieslings.

Rieslings pair very well with Asian-style cuisine, spicy foods, and even very rich dishes, such as foie gras. All that acid really cuts through the richness.

Some great Rieslings to try are:

Pikes Riesling – Clare Valley, Australia (about $18)
This is a fantastic bone-dry Riesling with tangy fruit and a clean, long finish. Very refreshing.

Wegeler Riesling Sekt Brut – Germany (about $20)
This sparkling Riesling is made in the Brut (dry) style, but does still display lots of fresh, ripe sweet fruit. A great one to try next time you're celebrating. (NOTE: "sekt" means sparkling.)

Kiona Riesling – Washington (about $9)
This is a good, basic North American Riesling. It is on the sweeter side, but with enough acidity to pair very nicely with food.

Louis Guntrum Riesling Spatlese Niersteiner
Germany (about $18) – This is one of my favorites. "Spatlese" means that this wine is on the drier side but still contains a decent amount of sweetness. This elegant wine shows fresh peach and ginger flavors with a smooth, off-dry finish.

German wine labels can be very confusing and intimidating. There are certain key words to look for when choosing your favorite style. From driest to sweetest: Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, and Eiswein. Don't be afraid. Rieslings can appeal to every palate. Prost!