The HDTV Guide | Jackson Free Press | Jackson, MS

The HDTV Guide

I recently turned my stuff-wanting attention to the purchase of a new television set. I've got the same RCA 32-inch tube that I bought for my first apartment after college, and while it doesn't really show too many signs of wear, I still feel like something is lacking when I fire up a letterboxed movie and settle in with a bowl of popcorn. It just doesn't quite have the zip that I imagine a newer TV might offer.

Plus, as many of you may already have noticed, it really has turned out to be the year of HD (High Definition) TV, and the precipitous drop in price for LCD TVs in particular has peaked my interest. I've been shopping 37-inch HDTV LCD models casually (looking here or there when the mood strikes, often led by a surfing stop at DealNews.com), and I'm starting to see some prices that are within striking distance of my budget … say, sub $1000. Way sub.

The questions that I've wrestled with in all this shopping, though, have answers that I thought might be worth sharing in this column. Especially if—oh, I don't know—you've been hearing similar HDTV pining from a loved one and aren't sure exactly which direction to take things around the holidays? Well, here's a primer on the terminology:

• HD. The blanket term, High Definition, contrasts with Standard Definition (SD), which we've been watching for years. Current HD broadcast standards offer either 720 progressives lines of resolution or 1080 interlaced lines of resolution, usually in a 16:9 aspect ratio ("widescreen"). SD has been 480 visible interlaced lines of resolution in a 4:3 ratio. The upshot is that with HD you'll see more detail in the image (because there's at least twice the number of "pixels" used to display an image), and the wider screen translates into more picture area when you're viewing an HD television signal.

• Interlacing vs. Progressive. With interlacing, every even line on the screen is drawn, then the odd lines. On tube-style TVs, the screen's phosphors stay luminous long enough that you don't notice the alternating lines, but it's interlacing that gives you the "banding" effect when you try to record a TV with a video camera. With a progressive display, each line of resolution is drawn one after the other (or otherwise simultaneously) without skipping. Today's LCD computer displays are progressive, as are many HD sets, so progressive is a common format for HD. However, when HD was originally envisioned, it was aimed at CRT-based televisions (tubes), so interlacing was assumed. As a result, there's some overlap in the two standards.

• 1080i. Adding everything together, you can see what one of the major HD standards means—1080 lines of interlaced resolution. NBC, CBS, HBO and others with common ownership broadcast in 1080i in part because they've been at it longer and went with the older standard. Modern HD sets "de-interlace" the 1080i picture before displaying it, which can mean very high image quality, but can slow down the "refresh" rates slightly.

• 720p. 720 lines of progressive resolution. This is the current standard for LCD and Plasma HD TVs, although 1080p (progressive) is the emerging standard in high-end sets. 720p is generally better for fast action than 1080i and a 720p TV will resample the 1080i image for its resolution. Fox, ABC and Disney's channels broadcast in 720p.

• 1080p. The best of both worlds, a bit more expensive and not currently being used for broadcast, although it's the standard for Blu-ray Disc and HD DVD formats. If you can get a 1080p TV in your price range, go for it, because it'll handle the other two HD standards just fine.

• LCD. LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) is the technology in today's "flat panel" computer screens, and it's made a very successful leap into TVs. Shop any electronics store, and you'll see many LCD displays, with prices going down constantly. Just make sure the LCD is HD or HD-Ready if it seems like too good of a deal.

• Plasma. Plasma TVs can be larger than is practical with LCD displays. HD plasma displays are available these days, but less expensive models are often EDTV models that offered an "enhanced" picture—better than SD, but not as high-resolution as true HD. Some plasma displays have a relatively short life due to their fixed internal light source and they can dim over time.

• Rear projection. These are larger screens with a small projector that's shooting the images to the display. Rear projection screens tend to be less bright than LCD displays, but they can be much larger, and newer rear-
projection displays use brighter DLP technology for a more impressive picture.

• DLP. A different take on an LCD-like technology that offers vivid colors and very steady images. The technology is used for both rear-projection and LCD-like flat-panel displays, with a replaceable light source that gives a DLP TV a longer-life than many LCD and plasma displays.

• HD-Ready. A TV that can display HD images but that doesn't include an HD tuner is often marketed as HD-Ready. This isn't always a bad thing, particularly if you intend to use your display with a digital cable or satellite box that includes its own HD tuner.

So, which one should you buy? Obviously, some of the pricier TVs offer more of the above features—1080p is something of a holy grail right now—but most of the value in your purchase is likely to come from getting a good brand of TV. I'd recommend taking a close look at the brand and model number of any HDTV you're considering and plug it into a Google search (with the keyword "+review"), a review site such as CNet, or a public opinion site such as ePinions or Amazon. You might be surprised—I've looked closely at some 37-inch HD-Ready LCDs in the $600-700 range that are getting good reviews from customers and that might just be my next home entertainment purchase.

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