Jackson Free Press

When I first began drinking wine, I dived right in to big, fat reds: Cabernet, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and the like. Whites weren't on my radar; I thought they were beneath a real wine drinker. Little did I know. … Then I found Riesling. That elegant, versatile grape brought me back from the dark side. My first experience with Riesling was sweet, but it can also be made off-dry or bone dry, as well as in a sparkling version.

In addition to its versatility, Riesling achieves merit for its ability to age well. Unlike most white wines, which need to be consumed within a few years, high quality Riesling can continue to improve gracefully in the bottle for decades. Part of that aging capacity is due to the naturally occurring tartaric acid, which stands as a perfect balance to any amount of residual sugar.

Many people associate the variety with Germany and understandably so. It is the country's most widely planted grape, though not the most reliable. Needing a long, slow growing season, it can fall prey to early frost common to Germany's climate if not planted in the right places. However, many growers readily accept the challenge and do especially well in the regions of Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Pfalz. The great thing about German labels, once you understand them, is that they give some hint as to the level of sweetness of the grapes inside. Based on ripeness at picking, the following categories start with the lightest and driest and move up to richest and sweetest: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trocken-beeren-aulese, also known as TBA. The last two are rare and expensive but worth it to taste their syrupy nectar.

Alsace also produces superb Riesling, though its versions are drier and tend to have higher alcohol. Considered some of the world's best, they showcase the grape's soaring aromatics. The states of Washington and more recently New York have entered the Riesling game in the U.S. to much applause. And southeastern Australia seems to be having success as well.

Some recommendations include Louis Guntrum Niersteiner Spätlese ($18), Château Ste. Michelle ($10), Rocky Gully Dry Riesling ($13), Wegeler Riesling Sekt Brut ($18). Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Haag and Prüm are other reliable producers.

Though many wine experts have long acknowledged Riesling as a noble grape variety, it was overly sweet versions that led many drinkers to disregard Riesling as a serious wine. Lately, however, the tables seem to be shifting again, so grab a bottle before they're all gone.