Jackson Free Press

If any grape bespeaks the sunny climes and fearless attitude inherent to California, Zinfandel does. Whether it's the bold, fruity flavors or its tendency toward a high alcohol content, Zinfandel successfully represents the state that stands as a mecca for loud celebrities.

Last summer, Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger vetoed a bill to make Zinfandel the official state grape to avoid singling out one varietal, thereby shunning the others. Yet, the true cause may be deeper and go farther than that—as far back as Zinfandel's history stretches.

For a time considered to be indigenous to the U.S., Zinfandel has a checkered past. The story goes something like this: After the Gold Rush, many new arrivals turned to farming and often looked to New England for plants. Years earlier, in 1829, unnamed vines were originally brought to Boston from Vienna. Dubbed zinfindal and zenfandel, that varietal made its way to California in 1852 and was growing in Napa and Sonoma seven years later. During the years of Prohibition, Zin was the choice of many home winemakers.

Different theories of Zin's origin floated around the wine world for years. After a discovery in the late '60s, Primitivo from Italy was thought to be the source. However, Zinfandel preceded Primitivo, so it obviously could not have been the source. The real source is Croatia, where the vines have disappeared almost completely—only nine remained in 1990.

History lesson done—the real enjoyment comes from drinking. Zin's style can be quite versatile, from polished and refined to powerhouse red to near-port. It even merits its own group: Zinfandel Advocates and Producers—called ZAP—makes for a merry tasting extravaganza, where people exit with purple tongues.

Zinfandel is a crowd pleaser and good to have on hand for drinking with or without dinner. With its tendency toward jammy fruit and spice, it goes very well with spicy foods, such as gumbo and jambalaya and most grilled meats, especially bratwurst.

Wine from some highly regarded producers can be found in Jackson:

Ravenswood: Joel Peterson is considered to be a Zin expert, and his Sonoma (~$19) is one of the flagships.

Ridge: Paul Draper makes elegant and age-worthy Zinfandels, including the Geyserville (~$32) and the Paso Robles (~$38).

Rosenblum: They produce around 20 Zins, such as the acclaimed Richard Sauret (~$25) and the reliable Vintner's Cuvee (~$13).

Martella: Using grapes from his brother's vineyards in Amador, Michael handcrafts the Fiddletown (~$27).

Others that tend to go quickly but deserve a scramble if you can find them: Martinelli, Robert Biale and Saddleback.