When the schedule came out for the second round of the NBA playoffs, I saw that the Memphis Grizzlies would host the Golden State Warriors on Saturday, May 9, at the FedExForum, and I decided to get tickets and make the trip an adventure of sorts.
I had never been to a Grizzlies game and hadn't experienced the Memphis scene and nightlife as an adult. I also set out to explore the best Mississippi had to offer along the way. Some things were carefully planned while others just naturally happened. Most were fairly practical. The following is a chronological guide to the landmarks of a Mississippi-to-Memphis adventure.
Dogwoods Golf Course (2424 Hugh White State Park Road, Grenada, 662-226-4123)
This is the golfing gem of Mississippi. I had heard good things, but the PGA-style layout blew me away. The natural scenery of the course makes it a knockout. Don't expect immaculate conditions, but at $40 for a greens fee, which includes a cart, prepare for a surprisingly delightful and affordable golf outing on the way.
Spencer's Dairy Kream (279 Sunset Drive, Grenada, 662-226-9884)
I saw the long waiting line on the way to Dogwoods and made a note to stop on the way out. The shop didn't disappoint. Spencer's is one of those small-town Mississippi soda fountains you recognize instantly and never forget. I ordered the cheeseburger and a butterscotch milkshake and sat at my checkered-tablecloth booth, watching people of all walks populate this charming old spot.
South Panola football billboards (town line of Batesville, Miss.)
Nothing symbolizes passion for high-school football in the South quite like gigantic billboards on the highway that announce the hometown team. Batesville has erected one on both sides of Interstate 55 for the 10-time state champions, the South Panola Tigers. It's a slice of Mississippi Americana.
Aldo's Pizza Pies (100 S. Main St., Suite 101, Memphis, Tenn., 901-577-7743)
This was apparently a good downtown spot for value food and beer before the game. The problem was I couldn't get a beer because of my freshly expired driver's license, so my friends and I went elsewhere without ordering food. The ensuing exchange of "I couldn't be more than 28," and "I know, but I can lose my job serving you" happened at the next couple of establishments. We worked around it on Beale Street, but they're serious about this technicality in Memphis.
Beale Street, Part One (downtown Memphis, Tenn.)
The atmosphere on Beale Street before game tip-off rivals Bourbon Street before a New Orleans Saints game. Tens of thousands of people milled around, carousing and eating. Street bands played, and people cleared spaces to dance and watch. Street vendors sold every imaginable form of gear, from shirts to towels to horns. All the while, the arena loomed yards away as the backdrop, welcoming fans to the battleground. It was a high point of the revelry.
Grit and Grind: The Memphis Grizzlies at FedExForum (191 Beale St., Memphis, Tenn., 901-205-2525)
The Grizzlies franchise has embraced the city's gritty reputation with its roster of tough-minded players and a playing style that emphasizes defense and hustle over star power and skill. The organization aggressively markets the mindset that Memphis and its people are overlooked underdogs.
In turn, the fans connect with the team like few other professional cities and respond with deafening support that makes the FedExForum, also known to fans as the Grindhouse, one of the NBA's most energetic venues.
Beale Street, part two (downtown Memphis, Tenn.)
The late-night vibe on Beale Street was decidedly different from the pre-game scene. The anticipatory buzz of the free-flowing tailgating succumbed to a tightly packed, stand-and-see club feel. Lines of security guards replaced the rows of vendors around the crowd. There was simply no room for the festive street bands of the afternoon. Both were unique atmospheres that couldn't have felt more different.
Earnestine & Hazel's (531 S. Main St., Memphis, Tenn., 901-523-9754)
This 1930s establishment offered the jukebox feel for which Memphis is famous. The venue has been everything from a pharmacy to a pay-by-the-hour hotel, and it still retains a dingy, accommodating atmosphere. We took advantage of the hospitality with late-night burgers cooked right behind the bar. You can still go upstairs and view the old offices.
Jake & Rip's (1525 Sunset Drive, Grenada, 662-227-9955)
If you're a golfer like me, you'll want to hit Dogwoods again on the way back. But this time, stop and dine at Jake & Rip's. It's another charming small-town Mississippi spot, and the charisma of the worn wood and friendly servers will knock you over. Just save a little room for another milkshake at Spencer's Dairy Kream.